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Greetings from Turkey's border with Iran, where Iranians let loose on the dance floor

Emily Feng
/
NPR

Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly series in which NPR's international team shares moments from their lives and work around the world.


Walking the streets of eastern Turkey, I stumbled across an underground Iranian disco.

Inside I met a Sufi dervish, a young protester, a former prisoner — men, women and entire families came to dance to a lively Persian, Arabic and Turkish DJ set.

The festive atmosphere hid stories of pain. Some of the revelers had moved to Turkey years ago, lured by higher wages and a freer political climate than in Iran. For some, their life here is one of exile; they finished prison sentences or fled the threat of imprisonment and left their families behind.

One young man I met had just left Iran the week before, with his sick mother. He described intense bombing and shelling in Tehran, where he's from, as U.S. and Israeli strikes began on his country in February.

He described harshly conflicting emotions about the war: "I love my country. This is my home. This is my everything … but this government destroy[ed] my youth and my future," he said.

And under the strobing disco lights, he felt hope tinged with homesickness as he pondered his future outside of Iran.

See more Far-Flung Postcards from around the world:

Copyright 2026 NPR

Emily Feng is NPR's Beijing correspondent.